Centeno's Stamp on Bar Celona

photo copyright 2008 Clare Kleinedler

Recently checked out the new menu at Bar Celona in Pasadena, and it's definitely a winner. Before Chef Josef Centeno swept in for his consulting gig, this was yet another waste of space in Old Town; great atmosphere, but no substance or style when it came to the food. Now it's a different story.

The menu features tapas that you would actually find in Spain: fried anchovies with a touch of honey (believe me, these are addictive); chicken liver conserva on crispy toasts, blistered padron peppers with just a touch of sea salt, charred bread rubbed with raw garlic and tomatoes. This is the kind of food I love to eat, and paired with one of the selections from the restaurant's new wine list (Centeno also consulted on this), well, it's all I need for a good night out. To finish? I highly recommend the chilled cinnamon rice pudding with candied pecans and caramel.

View the complete menu here.

Parting is Such Sweet Sorrow

I couldn't possibly post all of my photos and stories of my trip to New Zealand; there are just too many and it wouldn't be right if, three months from now, you were still reading about a trip I took way back when.

It was difficult leaving such a beautiful country, and I can truly say that I fell in love with the place. It's green, clean and has a booming gourmet food scene that's full of life and vitality. There's a lot of optimism here; people are excited and hopeful in a way I haven't seen in a while.

Of course the most memorable parts of my trip involved the people I met over my two-week adventure. The chefs, the tour guides, the cab drivers - everyone was kind, friendly and eager to share. They were proud and it showed in whatever they produced.

New Zealand surprised me in a lot of ways. I had been once before, and though I have fond memories of it, it didn't leave a memorable impression. This time was different. If I was talking about just the food alone, I would say I had at least a half-dozen dishes that were completely new to me, and prepared in ways that I hadn't seen before. I was introduced to a wide range of vegetables that I had never before tasted, and had some of the best seafood I've ever eaten in my life. Suffice it to say that I will most likely be disappointed by any mussels dish I'll order here in the states after feasting on the monster-sized, insanely rich and succulent variety available in New Zealand.

There were other revelations as well. I was actually able to go through an airport without any security checks. I walked up, said my name, got my ticket and was on the plane (intercontinental flight, not international). Before you get all worked up about how the NZ government is risking lives, etc., just appreciate the simplicity of something we were able to do - without any fear - less than ten years ago. It was a small and precious gift.

I loved that so many people I met had left their corporate jobs to move onto something more fulfilling; a former Parliament writer turned beer expert/writer; a former IT manager who became a vintner; an advertising executive who is now giving foodie tours around her neighborhood. Lifestyle matters to these people, and they proved that sometimes taking a risk pays off - not monetarily, but in ways that are priceless.

I got to witness people living a simpler life, one with few material goods but filled with family traditions and spiritual connections. A life of hard work, and a life hard-earned.

There were plenty of people marching to the beat of their own drum. And the respect they were shown by the mainstream really impressed me.

Now I have to do the seemingly impossible: I have to sit down and write a feature story on this country and its culinary point of view and the people who define it. How I will ever do them justice is beyond me, but all I can do is try my best.

Wish me luck!

Gatekeepers of the Sounds

“I just saw ‘Erin Brokovich’ the other day, and she hasn’t been through shit compared to what we have!” - Pete

Pete, along with his wife Takutai, has sacrificed a great deal for their beliefs. Founders of the watchdog group, Guardians of the Sounds,” the group works to protect the network of sea-drowned valleys known as the Marlborough Sounds. These waterways have been home to Pete and his ancestors for over 100 years, and Takutai – though not from these parts - was born with the calling to protect these waters; her name means “One who has an affinity with the sea.”
We were lucky enough to have Pete and Takutai take us on a 4-hour tour of the Sounds in their boat, the Tutanekai, which was gifted to them by an old friend. The couple refers to the boat as a “he,” which is relatively unusual, but there is nothing common about Pete and his wife. They literally live to preserve this area, and have lost jobs, friends and money in their fight to protect these waterways.
When big businesses brought in giant boats to the Sounds, they results were devastating. Racing through the water at up to 50 knots, the waves created by these boats were literally tearing apart the shorelines and destroying the area’s beaches. Though it took 10 years of battling corporate attorneys, the couple eventually won and today the area is protected by the government. That said, the two are always on the lookout and work tirelessly to promote respect and care for this environment.

As we glided around the gorgeous waters of the Sounds, Pete told story after story about his love of the area. He speaks with absolute passion and love for the area in which is grew up and has never left; he has no plans to even visit anyplace else and is happy staying put. Takutai is less talkative but her relationship with the natural environs are apparent; she immediately takes her shoes off when we get on the boat and chooses to stand outside on the deck even when we’re passing through bone-chilling rain. When we dock the boat to explore the land, she’s feet first in the mud and running through the water with the ease of a sea animal. Her wild hair trails behind her like streamers as she quickly navigates her way around the rocky shoreline.
In between Pete’s stories, Takutai makes time to scurry down to the tiny kitchen below deck and whip up some fried bread and homemade tomato soup. She serves this with chunky sea salt and some freshly sliced avocado.

The soup is tangy, with a touch of sweetness from the Manuka honey she’s added for flavor. After a few hours out on the cold channels, the hot soup is exactly what we need.
The two drop us off at our next destination before heading back out into the Sounds. As the Tutanekai pulls away, Takutai runs out onto the deck and waves furiously – she continues waving until the boat is out of sight.

Bay of Many Coves

The place where Peter and Takutai dropped us was the breathtaking and beautiful Bay of Many Coves Resort. The name is such because it is located in a bay of the same name, right along the Marlborough Sounds.

The buildings almost blend into the environment, and the interiors are stylish and cozy. It was raining when we arrived, so our suites - with their comfy sofas and afghans and heaters - were the perfect retreat.

I didn't even mind the weather, as we really had nothing to do that day and it was the ideal place to sit with a hot cup of tea and watch the rain fall. However, I did watch the last debate on television (they had CNN - woot!), but it didn't take away from the peaceful environment.

The view from my balcony was, in a word, stunning. I really felt like I was in the middle of nowhere; the resort is accessible only by boat or helicopter, and there are no cars or roads on the property (except for the golf cart used to carry luggage). Bay of Coves is a place to truly relax and soak in the natural beauty of the Sounds without any distractions.

The resort, of course has a fantastic restaurant. The chef, Mark, is the partner of Lisa, and together they manage the resort. The two have traveled the world managing luxury resorts, and are the dynamic duo that keep things running smoothly. For dinner, Mark made one of the most memorable dishes of our trip - a kumara and crayfish bisque. Kumara is a New Zealand staple that is somewhat like our sweet potato, though less sweet. The bisque was rich and creamy with a touch of curry and a hint of cilantro at the end. I wonder if Mark would send me the recipe (hint, hint, if you are reading this!).

Cindy got the ravioli, which I think was filled with duck (having problems remembering) and tossed in a light cream sauce. This, too, was excellent, and served with a microgreen salad on top.

Being in the country of some of the best salmon I've ever tasted, I had to order the salmon with mozzarella mash for my main course. The salmon skin was golden and crispy, with the flesh cooked a perfect medium rare. The flavors were gorgeous and I ate every last bite of this dish. Dinner was so satisfying, in fact, we actually skipped dessert - something we rarely did on this trip!

That evening, I had the best sleep I'd had in a very long time. As I dozed off, I could hear the water lapping up on the shore beneath the buildings. When I woke up, the bay was enveloped in fog and the only sounds to be heard were that of the birds that inhabit the area.

For breakfast, we were treated to soft scrambled eggs and salmon on a warm, toasted bagel. I couldn't finish the whole thing, but loved every bite. It was the perfect fuel for the long day that awaited us.

South Island Retreat

Yesterday we said goodbye to the North Island of New Zealand and took a short but sketchy flight (in a tiny plane) to Blenheim, on the South Island. The descent was rough; Cindy even looked over at me and said, "Clare, it's been nice knowing you," shortly before we landed safely.

After hitting the Brancott Winery, we retreated to the serene oasis that is the BEC Resort and Spa. Perched atop a hillside, the resort overlooks green vineyards and pastures full of sheep and cows. The main house has a large kitchen and main dining and living area, and there are several rooms with private bathrooms. There's also a sparkling pool and jacuzzi outside.

The place is owned and operated by a wonderful couple - Aloka and Leon. They are both very well traveled (they met 8 years ago while independently trekking through Nepal), well versed in art and music and love food. But that's where the similarities between them end.

Soft-spoken Brit Aloka is warm and patient, helping guests with whatever they may need. She's an incredible cook, trained in Scotland, and also happens to be a former nuclear scientist. But she's such a natural hostess that it's hard to imagine her in a lab, and thankfully for us, those days are behind her.

For last night's dinner, Aloka made mini Yorkshire puddings that she filled with Bearnaise sauce and topped with cubes of filet mignon. Each was a perfect, decadent bite. We ate WAY too many of these and downed them with way too many glasses of red wine.

Our main course was a perfectly medium rare rack of lamb, which Aloka served with homemade potatoes Daphne and sauteed spinach with pine nuts. She and Leon and a few other guests ate with us in the informal dining area, which had a breathtaking view of the rolling green hills.

Leon, a former attorney and real estate mogul from Philadelphia, is hyper and talkative and downright entertaining. He loves to tell stories, and every other sentence that comes out of his mouth starts with, "Do you want to hear a story? I've got a story about that!" We found him to be engaging and all-together delightful. His stories, including one about how he came in dead-last in a triathlon years ago (800 out of 800 people!), were hilarious. He graciously showed us he and Aloka's incredible art collection, including a painting of Leon himself in ski underwear and holding a bunch of wild flowers. Like I said, this guy is a character!

Breakfast the next day was Aloka's homemade multigrain bread with scrambled eggs and salmon. We were sad to leave, but had to be on our way. Thank you, Aloka and Leon, for a wonderful stay!

Here's me heading off to our next local, which is only accessible via a boat. More on this later!

Lavender's Green Farm - Featherston, NZ

While traveling around New Zealand, we've seen many farms from the road. Sheep, cows and sometimes even goats graze around the green hillsides, basking in the sun and living the good life. You know those California Cheese "Happy" cows? They actually exist here.

So it was a real treat when we visited Lavender's Green, a lemon farm that produces all kinds of lemon products like curd and relish. The place is also home to a gaggle of chickens and a bunch of adorable sheep.

The farm manager fixed us a proper New Zealand tea, complete with scones and tarts made from the farm's products.

The cream scones (no butter added), were light and flakey and perfect with their lemon and fruit jelly spread...

...and the lemon curd tarts, filled with their homemade lemon and lime curds, were also delicious. Sitting out in the sun, eating fabulous pasteries in such a natural environment - it was a wonderful experience.

But perhaps the best part was getting up close to the sheep, including this one named Hypo (because she's very hyperactive). She actually comes if you call her by name, though you also need a handful of grass for her to feed on if you want her to stick around.

The house itself was a work of art; the place is about a hundred years old and is filled with beautiful antiques, like this plate rack. Thanks to our hosts for taking such good care of us on the farm!

Beer, beer and more beer!

We've been drinking our way through the vineyards of New Zealand for the last week or so, and while it's been absolutely fabulous, we got a nice change of pace - in the form of BEER. Neil Miller, a beer expert with an ironic last name, took us on a beer tasting tour in Wellington and I have to say that I learned a thing or two about pairing beer with food.

We started off at Mac's Brewery, a restaurant and brewery right by the waterfront in Wellington. We had six different beers to taste, along with a platter of bites from blue cheese to pate. Each beer paired nicely with a different item; for example, the red ale worked perfectly with the blue cheese and the lighter beer went perfectly with the pickled mussels.

Next we went to St. John's Hotel, a restaurant that is housed in a former ambulance garage. We tasted three different kinds of beers...

...and were treated to some gorgeous New Zealand green lipped mussels. I got my hands on a female one, hence the peach color surrounding the flesh.

We also had a beautiful scallop, served with the roe attached. Most restaurants in NZ leave the roe on, which is a really nice touch. It adds a slight salty bite to the mild scallop.

We also had crostini with beef and a caramelized onion jam, which was fantastic.

Lastly we went to D4, an elegant beer bar and restaurant, where we sampled some of NZ's smaller boutique beers. Though the food they served was just OK, the beers were excellent. I will have to post the names later - I have to dig through my notes (sorry!!)...more soon!