Photo courtesy of Food NetworkJust when I thought I'd seen it all, the culinary version of a three-headed monster appeared on "Paula's Home Cooking" this morning. Paula Deen, whose love of butter and all things fattening is very well known (and loved by many), went over the top - even for her - with "The Lady's Brunch Burger." With its ground beef patty, bacon slices and fried egg sandwiched between TWO KRISPY KREME DONUTS, it should be called the "The Lady's ARE YOU OUT OF YOUR FLIPPIN' SOUTHERN FRIED MIND??? Burger."
I get the whole sweet & savory bit. Heck, I can actually kind of see how the McDonald's McGriddles would be appealing with its maple-flavored pancake bread and savory sausage - a common combo. But two glazed donuts being used as buns for a burger? What's next? Oreo cookies topped with smoked salmon? Twinkies croutons in a Cesar salad?
But it's not the flavor profile (which, to be fair, I have not tasted myself) that bothers me. It's the ridiculous overuse of empty calories and bad fats in a time where America is fatter than ever. I get Paula's schtick and believe, to a point, that it's genuine; she does come from a very Southern upbringing where fried foods were a staple. It just seems like she's getting out of control, often replacing something that was fine in the first place (like a hamburger bun) with something entirely unhealthy.
A perfect example of this is the another dish she made on today's show: the Baked Garlic Cheese Grits. She cooked up the grits, then proceeded to shove three, large cheese "logs" into the pot of grits. Yes, processed, Velveeta-style logs o' cheese. Why on earth can't you just use grated cheddar? And, more importantly, do you really need a big ol' block of baked cheese grits with your Krispy Kreme burger? Who's coming to brunch? Kobayashi?
I'm not anti-fat. I love crispy toasts spread with oxtail marrow and the occasional slice of homemade chocolate cake. As Ruhlman so eloquently pointed out recently, it's all about having a healthy relationship with food and going for the fresh stuff vs. everything in a box or can. Topping your burger with donuts...well, I can't find anything redeemable about that.
All this said, it's Paula's show and she can do whatever she wants. If it bothers me, I can choose not to make her crazy food or just turn off the television.
On that note, here's a brunch or lunch dish that is hearty, satisfying and healthy. Enjoy!

Salmon & Mushroom Hash
-1/2 white onion, minced
-5-7 cremini mushrooms, diced
-1 teaspoon curry powder
-3 oz. salmon, cooked and cut into small pieces
-3 small white or red-skinned potatoes, cooked and diced
-1/2 bag of fresh baby spinach
-Salt & pepper to taste
In a saute pan sprayed with olive or canola oil spray, cook the onions and mushrooms until the onions are translucent. Add curry powder and cook for an additional minute, allowing the curry to coat the onions and mushrooms. Throw in the salmon and potatoes, and cook until warmed through. Toss in the spinach and cook until spinach is wilted down. Serve hot. Feel free to top with a poached egg if you desire. Serves 1 very hungry person or 2 not-so-hungry people.