Showing posts with label english biscuits. Show all posts
Showing posts with label english biscuits. Show all posts

Monday, April 30, 2007

San Francisco: Nigella Style

My dearest friends Stacy (above) and Cat (below) toast to a lovely evening at TWO!



A night of pure, lusty food was had at TWO, a relatively new SOMA restaurant. You've already gotten a preview of the bone marrow from this restaurant, which was so delightful it required its very own posting.

My lovely friends Cat (book publishing editor) and Stacy (web channels manager) met me for an evening of total debauchery (food-wise), and I think we can all agree that it was absolutely worth every calorie and fat gram. I'll save the long descriptions for your imagination and leave you with an array of photos plus comments on the food from Nigella Lawson:


"TWO's 'bread basket' consists of warm, luscious, buttery chive biscuits and deliciously hot and naughty cayenne crisps. One might feel utterly sinful devouring these little devilish morsels of pastry but, quite frankly, I can give myself pleasure without feeling guilty, no?"


"This is an example of taking something very simple and turning it into a brilliant work of food art. Shaved asparagus, lemon zest and a sprinkle of nuts serve as a cozy bed for a delicious, fried hunk of sheep's milk cheese. The texture is slightly springy and chewy but in the most appealing way; I quite like to tear into this dish late at night wearing only a pair of my best stilettos and a cashmere scarf. I beg to ask, 'What more do you need?'"



"Some people are frightened by the thought of eating pigeons, but I can honestly say I don't discriminate when it comes to matters of the flesh. Any flesh will do, so long as its plump and exquisitely juicy. This ravioli filled with squab is perfection in my book; each is like a little treasure, wrapped in a golden moist skin and bursting with mounds of scrumptious meat...each bite bursting with savory liquid. It's quite gratifying to eat, really." [*winks*]



"Now I'm not a fan of fussy pizza as pizza is meant to be a delicious, higgledy-piggledy mess of the right flavors. But I'd be lying if I didn't admit that we tore into this duck confit and caramelized onion pizza with reckless abandon. The oily, silky duck flesh and the aromatic, sweet onions - the combination was utterly pleasurable to the palate. The best way to eat something this luxurious is to toss your hair to the side, throw down your fork and grab a slice with your bare hands and get down to it. Forget the napkins and use your tongue to simply lick any excess duck fat that may remain on your lips - we wouldn't want to waste now, would we?"


"I'm not a skinny woman and I shall never be, and my love of chocolate far outweighs any desire to fit into a sample-size piece of clothing. So for our last course we ordered the bittersweet chocolate fondue with graham crackers, biscotti and candied fruit. There's something about dipping a strawberry in rich, bittersweet chocolate and watching the shiny, dark liquid drip off the tip of the voluptuous red flesh that is fully mesmerizing. This fondue provides pleasure to literally all of one's senses, so that makes it the perfect dessert in my book."

-Nigella Lawson*

*Not really Nigella Lawson, but because the food at TWO was so decadent, I thought it fitting that I get into the spirit of the world's most lusty chef to describe our experience eating there. Needless to say, I am a fan of hers and this is not meant as a slag.



Sunday, April 8, 2007

Fish & Quips: English Food is NOT a Joke!


When Sam of Becks & Posh challenged food bloggers everywhere to consider why English food is not a joke, I knew I had to enter my feedback. My simple answer? English food is not a joke because nobody does biscuits (cookies) better. If you ever need to bribe me for any reason, just present me with a tube of chocolate-covered digestive biscuits and you can have whatever you want.

I recently needed to bribe someone who likes light, not-too-sweet cookies. Who, you ask? The who would be Otto, the manager of the parking structure in my office building; also known as the most powerful man in downtown Los Angeles. When there are thousands of office folk and only hundreds of parking spaces, and you're the one who decides who gets a parking pass and who doesn't, you've got power beyond any meathead bouncer at even the most "it" LA nightclubs. So I promised Otto I'd make him some fabulous, light cookies if he gave me a parking space. I like English biscuits in particular because they are never overly sweet but still decadently buttery and rich. The perfect match in this case? Shrewsbury biscuits.

Very basic ingredients


Shrewsbury biscuits originate from an English town of the same name, and were made popular by a baker named Mr. Palin in 1819. Though his original version was very hard, later recipes resulted in softer, chewier cookies. In any case, Mr. Palin's biscuits were beloved by many, as illustrated by Elizabeth Anderton in her "A Little Shropshire Gift Book," published in 1978, which says:

"Mr Palin, prince of cake compounders, the mouth liquefies at thy very name! This fulsome praise, given in one of ‘The Ingoldsby Legends’, is for Mr Palin of Shrewsbury, renowned for his particular mix of Shrewsbury cake or biscuits."

The recipe is very simple: butter, egg yolks, sugar, flour and lemon rind. There are variations of this cookie that include cardamon and other spices, but I am a sucker for pure lemon flavor so I went with the basic version.


Cookies ready for the oven

I improvised a bit and added some blood orange rind to the lemon rind as I only had a half of a lemon in my kitchen. I'm not sure if you can see it in this picture, but it produced little flecks of dark orange throughout the cookie, which added a nice decorative touch.


I packaged the cookies in an old Japanese tin I had, and will be giving them to Otto tomorrow; he's already promised me a pass - after my promise of cookies - and these Shrewsbury Biscuits will not disappoint. The cookies came out thin and chewy and lemony and light and utterly irresistable. Who knew English food could be all of those things and more? Just more evidence that English food is NOT a joke!


Ready to bribe!