My peripheral vision is quite good. So when I saw what looked like a group of men walking a mere few steps behind us, I leaned over and whipsered to my friend Rebecca that we might want to duck into one of the shops and let them pass. After all, this is Mexico City, a place as known for its vibrant people and mouthwatering food as it is for its developing nation status and street crime. After the group passed us, Rebecca said, "Oh, those are the Hell Boys." Hell Boys? I felt quite proud of myself that we'd managed to avoid a confrontation with a gang - a real gang! "No, like in hair gel. They just pronounce it hell here," Rebecca informed me.
Turns out they were just a group of teenage boys who like to use lots of gooey hair product to make their mops look cool. When we ran into them at a 7-11 up the street a few minutes later, I asked to take their photo. Just look at those baby faces!? Maybe it's time to get my vision checked.
Mexico City, like the hell boys, can give one impression but leaves quite another. What you typically hear about is the how bad the water is and how shady the cops are. Everyone has an opinion on what you should or shouldn't carry/wear as not to attract too much attention, which can drive one toward a state of paranoia. What you'll experience once there is that, like in New York, if you use common sense and follow a few simple rules, you'll discover how wonderful the city is.
One of the wonders we discovered on this trip was Cafe la Habana, the restaurant where Castro and Che planned the Cuban Revolution - or so the story goes. Opened in 1952, the cafe serves an incredibly strong cup of coffee (you can smell it halfway down the block) and an array of Mexican classics and regular diner fare. It's popular with reporters in the nearby newspaper district; my friend Cat, who worked at English-language daily, The News, used to eat here almost daily.
The place is quite big. The high ceiling creates a breezy space perfect for lounging and reading the paper over a steaming cup of killer (literally - prepare for heart palpitations, it's that strong) coffee.
Luckily for me and my blood pressure, the cafe offered decaf. It still tasted great - rich, bold, nutty, with a slight sweetness and a roasty essence but without that burnt aftertaste that coffee often has. But it is quite heavy. One cup will do, trust me.

Unlike restaurants in the U.S., bread baskets are typically not free at cafes or casual restaurants in Mexico City. Yes, the waiter brings it to your table without asking, but the rule generally is that if you eat any of it, you pay for the whole lot. It's cheap, but you still have to pay for it. If you leave it untouched, it will be recycled for the next new table. I wish U.S. rules and regulations would allow this, but restaurants here in the states have to, by law, throw out even untouched bread once it's been "served" to a customer. We didn't touch our bread since we all ordered bread-y breakfasts.

I, of course, got the chilaquiles because I heart them immensely. How good were they? Well, I think my favorite chilaquile dish (from the Primavera stand at the Ferry Building Farmer's Market in San Francisco) has officially been topped. The eggs were perfectly cooked, with just enough yolk to lightly coat the fiery red sauce and the chewy-crispy homemade tortilla chips. And the cool crema and light sprinkling of fresco cheese was the perfect compliment.

Rebecca, who lives in Mexico, opted for the pancakes and ham. While she thought they were a bit too sweet, I actually liked them a lot. I don't eat pancakes often, but these were light, fluffy and had a honey flavor to them.

My sister got the huevos con machaca, which is eggs scrambled with dried beef and a red sauce served with black refried beans and cheese. I think the red sauce was the same as the chilaquiles, but not as spicy. Very tasty and my sister was completely satisfied.
A little history, a great cup of coffee and good, homemade food made for a perfect morning out in Mexico City. Oh, and the service was above and beyond. One of the things you should always do in Mexico City is to have the waiter or restaurant manager call you a cab if you need one; never hail one on the street as you could end up in an illegal taxi cab and be robbed by the driver. Our waiter at La Habana not only called us a cab, he walked us out and made sure we got in safe and sound. It was pleasant and unexpected, just like much of Mexico City.
Cafe La Habana: Morelos #62 (On the corner of Avenida Cuauhtemoc and Morelos, at the eastern edge of the Reforma district)